Bread routes the meal
Bread is treated as an active interface between eater and table. It gathers hummus, salad, grilled meat, oil, and juices; it changes portion and sequence; it lets several dishes occupy one bite without requiring a fixed course. Because it is shared and repeatedly torn, bread also distributes access. Removing it leaves a set of plates but weakens the grammar that joins them. The volume's insistence on routing makes clear that a staple can organize movement and relation, not merely supply bulk.
